Mamallapuram Travel Guide

Mammalapuram once  a flourishing  port  of the pallavas  of ancient India, this monument  centre is today a major beach  resort  holiday  centre in south India.
Still popularly called Mahabalipuram, this historic coastal temple town is now known as Mamallapuram after ‘Mamalla’ ( great wrestler), the name given to Narasimhavarman 1 Pallavamalla, Pallava  ruler who made the port  famous  in the 7th century  and was largely responsible for the temples, Mamallapuram, 60 kms. south of Chennai, is an ancient seaside town, where anyone could see splendid specimens of Pallava art which flourished from about 600 to 750 AD.
Mammallapuram, famous for its shore temple, was the second capital and seaport of the Pallava kings of Kanchipuram, who were at the height of their political  power and artistic creativity from the 5th to 8th centuries AD. Most of the temples and rock carvings here were completed during the reigns of Narasimha Varma 11  (AD 700-28).

The monuments of Mamallapuram, most of them rock-cut; belong to the earliest phase of Dravidian temple architecture. Mythological episodes, epic battles, demons, gods, animals, all vividly depicted on the wall sculptures are breathtakingly real and artistic. There are 14 cave temples and 9 monolithic rathas and 3 stone temples and four relief sculptured rock panels. Bhagiratha’s ( Arjuna’s) penance is a bas-relief sculpted on the face to two enormous adjacent rocks and is 29 mts. long and 7 mts. high. Life size figures of animals, gods and saints depict the story of Bhagirath, praying for the Ganga from the Himalayas. Other carvings include scriptures and the figures from the Mahabharata and the Ramayana  depicting mythological episodes, epic battles of the demons and gods and are simply awe inspiring there is also a shore temple one of the oldest that has survived the ravages of time.

Places of attraction

Caves: Among the nine rock-cut cave temples the Krishna  cave is notable for its realistic  portrayal. In the Mahishasuramardhini Cave on one side is a magnificent  bas-relief  of Lord Vishnu in his cosmic sleep (Ananthasayanam) and in contrast on the other side is Goddess Durga  (Kali) fighting a buffalo-headed  demon.

The Shore Temple : (1 km) is surrounded gardens designed according to descriptions of the original layout from ancient texts. The oldest temple surviving the ravages of time sea wind and sun contains twin structural shrines and is magnificently located on the shore of the Bay of Bengal. It represents the final phase of Pallava art. Mamallapuram is also a well-known beach resort in India. Originally constructed around the middle of the 7th century it was later rebuilt by Narasimha  Varma II (also known as Rajasimhan). The temple’s two main spires contain shrines for shiva. Facing east and west the original Linga captured  the sunrise and sunset. A third and earlier shrine is dedicated to the reclining Vishnu were unearthed and ‘new’ ruins are being discovered. A ‘new’ ruins are being discovered. A  remarkable amount of temple carving remains especially inside the shrine. The temple with World Heritage listing is now protected from further erosion by a huge rock wall.

Arjuna’s Penance: One of the world’s largest and finest stone bas-relief depicting Arjuna’s penance is another pride of Mamallapuram . This huge whale-back-shaped rock faces the sea and is split with a fissure in the middle. On either side are earthly and Supernatural beings like Gods demi-gods men beasts and birds.

The relief carving on the face of a huge rock depicts animals deities and other semi-divine creatures as well as fables from the Hindu Panchatantra books. A huge perpendicular fissure that is skillfully encompassed into the sculpture divides the panel. Originally water representing the Ganges flowed downs the fissure.
Varying accounts relate the meaning of the relief but whatever the carving depicts it’s one of the most realistic and unpretentious rock carvings in India.

Five Rathas: To the south of the hillock holding the cave temples are the five monolithic  rathas  ( chariots ) each chiselled  out of a single rock and known as Pancha Pandava  Rathas  ( mid-7thcentury) 1.5 kms to the south of the old lighthouse. Each of the rathas  is considered to  be a prototype  in the evolution of Dravidian temple architecture. They were influenced by Buddhist  architecture in resembling the Vihara  ( monastery ) and Chaitya hall ( temple). They point to the evolution of different kinds of Dravidian  temples with Gopurams Vimanas  and Mandapas. The purpose of imitating in granite temple structure were built of wood is not known.

The first ratha  Draupadi  Rathna on the left after entering the gate is dedicated to goddess Durga. Within the goddess stands on a lotus her devotees on their knees in worship. Outside the huge sculptured lion stands proud in front of her temple. The others are the Arjuna  Ratha dedicated to Shiva, Bhima Ratha, honours Vishnu . Dharmaraju Ratha and the final ratha is the Nakula-Sahadeva  Ratha is dedicated to Indra.

Crocodile Bank: Not far from Mamallapuram this crocodile breeding and research  centre is run by Chennai  Crocodile Bank Trust. Here several species  of Indian and Continental  Crocodiles and alligators  are bred in captivity.
These reptiles are kept in their natural habitat in open pools and can be viewed from a safe proximity. These crocodile augment the crocodile population of wildlife sanctuaries.

Thirukkalukundram: This tourist spot has a small Shiva temple situated on top of the Vedagiri hill which is 160 mts. high. Just before noon every day two white kites stop at the temple and are fed by the temple priests. Legend has it that these two birds are actually saints who make a stop to rest at the temple on their flight between Varanasi  and Rameswaram.

There is also a large Shiva temple in the town below. Towards the southeast of the town is a spacious tank whose waters are said to possess curative powers. Once every twelve  years  a conch floats in this tank and thousands of devotees flock to bathe in the tank at this auspicious time. A collection of the conches is displayed in the larger shiva temple.

Tiger Cave : This houses a shrine of Goddess Durga and is about 4 kms away and features a crown of Tiger Heads. The cave is not signposted from the beach secluded and very peaceful-a lovely place for a picnic. On the way there is the Mukund  Nayar  Temple.